Showing posts with label instant yeast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label instant yeast. Show all posts

Thursday, 28 February 2008

Julia Child's French bread(rolls)


This month's Daring Bakers (fondly abbreviated DB by other fellow members) challenge hosted by Mary and Sara involves making French bread following the recipe by Julia Child. Although I have made bread with success in the past, I felt rather dubious undertaking this particular project. I suppose it is partly because I want my first DB entry to be groundbreaking, to be successful and prehaps even triumphant. Alas, this is not the case.

I made 2 attempts at the recipe, the first being a failure I would prefer to forget. However, in the spirit of selflessness (which is quite unfamiliar to me... 'til now) and by sharing a personal flop so others may learn and never have to suffer the same frustration, I have decided to again live through and immortalise the painful mistakes I have made through picture and prose.

In retrospect, I should have saved my Waitrose: Super Strong Unbleached Flour for my very delicious rye n seed loaves. I suspect being a less processsed flour meant that it had a lower starch content to "soak" up the volume of liquid called for in the recipe. I should have picked up on how soft and sticky the dough felt during kneading - or should I say paddling. The dough was reminiscent of the one for the no-knead bread I made previously. Not soupy, but definately difficult to handle and shape. Still, I perservered until the bread were baked. Despite the disappointing outcome, I took photographs so you (my patient reader) can picture what I have been ranting about for the past paragraph.


A more promising outcome came at my second attempt, though still a far cry from the sticks, boules and loaves you get from a French boulangerie. At the risk of sounding like a defeatist, I did resign myself to the fact that I will never achieve a good quality French crust; one that is thin, crisp and crackles as you tear the bread apart, at home. To be fair, I think all of us who decided to embark on this challenge were doing so on a handicap - we were all lacking the right oven! Or perhaps I just didn't try hard enough(?)


I spent a restless night in bed after my failed first attempt (NB you should know by now if you are losing sleep over the failure to make bread, it is likely your obsession is pathological) trying to figure out where I went wrong. I decided then, at a little past 3 in the morning, to get back into the kitchen and to try the recipe yet again but using an all-purpose flour (the colour of all-purpose flour is closer to brilliant white compared to the super-strong variety, the bleaching process leaches some of the grains' protein) and a teaspoon of sugar to help the yeast along during the prolonged fermentation period. I added water gradually to the dry ingredients while mixing and used considerably less water (a total of 290 ml) to achieve what I thought was an adequate consistency ie. soft, slightly tacky and pulling off the sides of the mixing bowl.


I followed the fermentation times inerrantly and was pleased with the results after each of the prescribed rising times. I performed 2 book-turns after the pointage premier temps to develop the gluten further and after the pointage deuxieme temps, I divided my dough into half and from the one half, shaped six petit pains and the other into a batard.


So far so good... but here comes the point where I fell short. Short of patience that is.

So why is it that the final rise takes so long? It felt like an eternity! I was rubbing my hands with anxiety and I finally gave into placing my dough in the oven eventhough I knew they just weren't quite ready to be baked. A price I paid quite dearly as clearly illustrated in the image below.


Yup, no simulated baker's oven was going to save these babies! The crumb of the baked product was tight and dense. Although not unpleasant to eat, I can't say it made me sing or cry out with joy.

All in all, I truly enjoyed this challenge. Furthermore, it has reinforced my belief that we all learn from mistakes and I have learnt mine: patience is required when baking the perfect bread.

Wednesday, 28 March 2007

Hot Cross Buns (Trial #1)


"Hot cross buns! Hot cross buns! One a penny, Two a penny, Hot cross buns!"

Eversince my success with brioche, I have been encouraged to continue into the vast universe of bread baking and seeing that Easter weekend is just around the corner, I decided I just had to take advantage of this holiday and have a go at hot cross buns. Sure they are meant to be eaten on Good Friday (the cross symbolising the crucifixion) but my excuse for making them this early, is hopefully by then I would have nailed the perfect bun (no religious pun intended) and be able to knock up a batch to share with my family and friends.

My understanding is during Lent (the forty days preceding Easter), one prays, does charity and abstains from food and festivities. It is a time of grief which ends with a great celebration of Easter. Fasting meant abstaining from eggs, meat, dairy, alcohol and sometimes even bread and fruit, and maybe only eating a small meal each day. Traditionally, hot cross buns were made in the absence of eggs, milk and butter so they were OK to eat during Lent.

The buns I attempted today with the inclusion of milk, butter, eggs, sugar, spice and fruit are definately decadent compared to the traditional variety and therefore are not suitable for those seeking penance! Most commercially-made hot cross buns are soft and fluffy, which gives a nice crunch to soft contrast when toasted lightly and spread generously with butter. However, I am partial to a slightly heavy and chewy crumb - like a sourdough, only studded with fruit and spiked with the warm, spicey notes of cinammon, clove and ginger which also imparts a sandy, earthy hue to the crumb.

Speaking of colour, have you ever noticed how some commercially produced buns have a purplish-gray shade? What is going on there??

Anyway, after doing some research on several recipes (as I am so determined to find a recipe that will yield MY favourite hot cross bun!), and doing some calculations, I decided I would begin with a small trial batch - a humble half-dozen buns using only plain flour (I have since decided to try a combination of rye and wholemeal flour for my second trial). Although the dough was slightly soft and sticky, I found it quite manageable after allowing it to further proof in the fridge for a couple of hours after its initial one-hour rise at room temperature. After shaping the dough, I allowed the buns to proof completely before piping the crosses on their tops. This ensures that the crosses do not shift and look a-size-too-small during baking. Oh! I found out (slightly after I pulled the buns out of the oven) it helps to spray the pan you decide to bake the buns in with some oil before you set the shaped dough in it as this will aid the unmoulding.

After having nervously anticipated the moment these little babies would be cooked and sufficiently cooled down for me to split into half for the very necessary crumb inspection, I have to admit I am slightly disappointed with the result. Nonetheless, finished with a syrupy glaze, toasted and offered with a generous spread of slightly salted butter, they look as good as they taste with a texture ever so softly yielding to the bite.

HOT CROSS BUNS
pre-ferment
1/2 tsp dried yeast
180ml milk at room temperature
20g sugar
120g plain flour
dough
1 tsp dried yeast
200g plain flour
30g sugar
1 1/2 tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp ginger
1 large egg, lightly beaten
50g salted butter, soft but chill to touch
100g raisins, soaked in water, reserving liquid
(makes 6 large or 9 small buns)
pre-ferment Prepare this the night before you plan to make the buns by combining all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisking to obtain mix that is of thick batter consistency. Cover the bowl with cling film and allow to rest at room temperature for at least an hour (Note: you should see bubbles on the surface of the mix indicating the yeast is alive and activated) before refrigerating overnight.
Note: This recipe yields quite a soft dough which can be very fiddly to work with by hand so I have used a stand-up mixer.
dough Scatter the flour, yeast, spices, egg and sugar on the pre-ferment and mix using a stand-up mixer with a dough-hook attachment at low speed. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl from time to time. Continue kneading for 5-7 minutes at medium speed or until a dough is smooth in appearance. Add the softened butter a teaspoon at a time until all is incorporated into the dough (takes about 5 minutes of kneading) which should look soft and satiny by now.
1st rise Cover the bowl with some cling wrap and set at room temperature for 45 minutes to 1 hour after which the dough would have almost doubled in volume.
2nd rise Press/knock/punch the dough to remove the air and place the dough into the fridge to proof for a further 1 - 1 1/2 hours. This process allows the dough to slowly rise but also helps with the amalgamation of the ingredients and setting of the fat rendering the dough more manageable.
shaping After this second rise, remove the dough from the bowl, gently press the dough down with your fingertips, divide into 6-9 equal portions for shaping into buns. Place buns in a greased pan, about 4cm apart if you want the finished bun to look square-ish but otherwise, space them 8cm apart to maintain their round shape after baking.
final proof Cover with a damp towel and allow shaped dough to double in size at room temperature. This will take about 40-45 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the flour paste for the cross (3 tbs plain flour + 2 tbs water + 1/2 tbs veg oil) and glaze (100ml reserved liquid from soaking the raisins + 3 tsp sugar, boil til reduced by half). Pre-heat the oven to 180 C.
baking Pipe the crosses (I made a makeshift piping bag by placing the paste in a plastic sandwich bag and snipping one corner) on top of the buns and bake for 25-30 minutes for large buns or 20-25 minutes for smaller buns. The time may vary - check to make sure the tops brown evenly. When cooked, remove from oven and brush the glaze on the buns while they are still hot.
cool completely (this allows the steam within the bun to redistribute into the crumb and gives you time to admire your work!) before eating them.